Effect of Some Sewing Variables on the Properties of Sewing Seams of Some Lining Fabrics

The research aimed at studying the effect of some Sewing variables represented in foot treadle pressure (normal/ high), and the sewing needle No. (16 , 18), and the sewing stitches number in centimeter (4/cm, 5/cm, 6/cm,) on the characteristics of sewing seams of some studied lining fabrics. These are represented in: Seam slippage (mm), elongation (mm), tensile strength of sewing seam (Newton), seam pucker degree, and percentage of sewing seam efficiency.
Aiming at identifying the best sewing variables of each textile material of lining fabrics which gives the best properties of the sewing seams, three types of lining fabrics from local markets as represented in two (100% polyster) fabric with a plain weave (1/1) and another fabric (100% viscose) with a twill weave (2/1). Natural and mechanical properties were identified in the weight average of square meter (gm), and the yarn count (denier /1), and fabric tensile strength (Newton), and elongation percentage, and the cutting time of lining fabrics in both directions of warp and weft (second). Samples of the three lining fabrics by the special sizes were prepared by the sewing seams properties' test and they were sewed by a polyester yarn (100%) obtained from the Arab company and Bolivara for textile & Weaving. Laboratorial tests of lining fabrics and their sewing seams were conducted in the laboratories of the weaving & textile industry fund in Seyouf. Experiments were divided into (72) experiments, (24) experiment for each type of lining fabrics using sewing variables which the study included.
Each experiment was conducted by two repetitions
 
 
in order to obtain the average of the sewing seams individually represented. After tabulating data and decoding them, relationships were calculated among the sewing variables and the sewing seam properties of lining fabrics using the variability analysis method (Test- f) at a nominal level (0.01).
The variation analysis results of the effects of the sewing variables' reaction on the sewing properties of the linings revealed the existence of a strong significant relationship among the sewing variables and the seam properties at the significance level (0.01). By calculating the least significant difference (L.S.D) of the sewing seam properties, the main effects of the reaction of sewing variables on the sewing seams properties were studied whether in individuals, triples. Each type of the studied sewing fabrics. They have shown the following: The first sample (100% Polyester) made the best results of sewing in the direction of warp by using the high pressure foot treadle and a needle number (18) and the stitches number (5/cm). As for the weft direction, the best results were made using a normal treadle foot pressure and needle No. (16) and stitches No. (5/cm). The second sample (100% Polyester) made the best results of sewing in the direction of warp by using the normal pressure foot treadle and a needle number (16) and the stitches number (5/cm). As for sewing in the weft direction, the best results were made using a normal treadle foot pressure and needle No. (18), and stitches No. (6/cm). The third sample (100% viscose) made the best results of sewing in the direction of warp by using the high pressure foot treadle and a needle number (16) and the stitches number (5/cm). As for the weft direction, the best results were made using a high treadle foot pressure and needle No. (18) and stitches No. (5/cm).